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  3. What thick BnW film for easy manual development ?

What thick BnW film for easy manual development ?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Photography
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  • m33@lemmy.zipM This user is from outside of this forum
    m33@lemmy.zipM This user is from outside of this forum
    m33@lemmy.zip
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hello there

    I just developed two black and white film rolls. That was a painful experience, because of my bad choice of film:

    šŸ‘æ The Lucky SHD400 is too thin, curling on itself like crazy, slipping on the reel.

    🫤 The Lomography earl grey 100 is a bit thicker, better catch on reel’s sides and locking ball.

    I wish next rolls will be easier to feed on the reel, any advices ?

    Until now nothing beats the Kikipan 320. But it’s not produced anymore.

    Asking AI seems only to praise most expensive films, not sure if it is true or biased.

    Also I tired asking on the mastodon and associated platform first with not much luck.

    Hopefully lemmy is better suited for that kind of open question ?

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    • m33@lemmy.zipM m33@lemmy.zip

      Hello there

      I just developed two black and white film rolls. That was a painful experience, because of my bad choice of film:

      šŸ‘æ The Lucky SHD400 is too thin, curling on itself like crazy, slipping on the reel.

      🫤 The Lomography earl grey 100 is a bit thicker, better catch on reel’s sides and locking ball.

      I wish next rolls will be easier to feed on the reel, any advices ?

      Until now nothing beats the Kikipan 320. But it’s not produced anymore.

      Asking AI seems only to praise most expensive films, not sure if it is true or biased.

      Also I tired asking on the mastodon and associated platform first with not much luck.

      Hopefully lemmy is better suited for that kind of open question ?

      Link Preview Image
      P This user is from outside of this forum
      P This user is from outside of this forum
      partial_accumen@lemmy.world
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      Its been a looooong time since I developed my own film (which was also black and white), but from my experience, the plastic reels were always worse than the metal reels. I always used something like this and it worked very well. Little difficulty getting it on the reels in the pitch black dark.

      I had to practice in daylight a couple of times with prior with developed (or scrap) film, but once I got the technique it was very easy to replicate in the dark.

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      • m33@lemmy.zipM m33@lemmy.zip

        Hello there

        I just developed two black and white film rolls. That was a painful experience, because of my bad choice of film:

        šŸ‘æ The Lucky SHD400 is too thin, curling on itself like crazy, slipping on the reel.

        🫤 The Lomography earl grey 100 is a bit thicker, better catch on reel’s sides and locking ball.

        I wish next rolls will be easier to feed on the reel, any advices ?

        Until now nothing beats the Kikipan 320. But it’s not produced anymore.

        Asking AI seems only to praise most expensive films, not sure if it is true or biased.

        Also I tired asking on the mastodon and associated platform first with not much luck.

        Hopefully lemmy is better suited for that kind of open question ?

        Link Preview Image
        C This user is from outside of this forum
        C This user is from outside of this forum
        cr1cket@sopuli.xyz
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        Plastic reels just have a tendency to jam. In the end it's basic physics. You push a thin and flexible material down into a spiral. At some point the resistance will win.

        If you keep your plastic reels clean and dry(!) and use films with a decently thick base, it usually still works fine though. Once you use a a film with a more flimsy base, this will turn into a problem.

        The make of the film material is basically zero problem with metal reels though, because you wind the film onto them. No pushing of flexible material involved. Metal reels also just work fine if you get sweaty hands inside your changing bag because it's summer and everything is hot.

        I mostly use metal reels nowadays. Because the handling is absolutely predicatable and they're also easier to clean and dry. Sometimes i still use the plastic reels, because i have them, but only with films like Ilford. Because they are thick enough to not jam up everything.

        m33@lemmy.zipM 1 Reply Last reply
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        • C cr1cket@sopuli.xyz

          Plastic reels just have a tendency to jam. In the end it's basic physics. You push a thin and flexible material down into a spiral. At some point the resistance will win.

          If you keep your plastic reels clean and dry(!) and use films with a decently thick base, it usually still works fine though. Once you use a a film with a more flimsy base, this will turn into a problem.

          The make of the film material is basically zero problem with metal reels though, because you wind the film onto them. No pushing of flexible material involved. Metal reels also just work fine if you get sweaty hands inside your changing bag because it's summer and everything is hot.

          I mostly use metal reels nowadays. Because the handling is absolutely predicatable and they're also easier to clean and dry. Sometimes i still use the plastic reels, because i have them, but only with films like Ilford. Because they are thick enough to not jam up everything.

          m33@lemmy.zipM This user is from outside of this forum
          m33@lemmy.zipM This user is from outside of this forum
          m33@lemmy.zip
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Many people seems to praise metal reels like you do, I will buy one at some point but I can’t imagine loading a soft or curly film without the help of a ball bearing …?

          Like what prevents it to slip backwards ? How to avoid touching the negative surface with my hands…

          (I wear vinyl gloves in the dark chamber to avoid sweat and figerprints)

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          • m33@lemmy.zipM m33@lemmy.zip

            Many people seems to praise metal reels like you do, I will buy one at some point but I can’t imagine loading a soft or curly film without the help of a ball bearing …?

            Like what prevents it to slip backwards ? How to avoid touching the negative surface with my hands…

            (I wear vinyl gloves in the dark chamber to avoid sweat and figerprints)

            P This user is from outside of this forum
            P This user is from outside of this forum
            partial_accumen@lemmy.world
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Many people seems to praise metal reels like you do, I will buy one at some point but I can’t imagine loading a soft or curly film without the help of a ball bearing …?

            Like what prevents it to slip backwards ? How to avoid touching the negative surface with my hands…

            Think about a metal tape measure. Its a long piece of floppy metal, but can stand nearly straight when held horizontally for many feet (or CM). Its because the metal is curved. When loading the film you do the same them. You hold the film at the edges and squeeze it a bit so it has that same curve as a tape measure. The metal reel is slightly narrower than 35mm film so the film goes in easy when curved, but when it gets to the binding point in the reel it expands out becoming wider, where it gets "caught" by the edge of the wire reel.

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